Uganda - December 2005- January 2006
Uganda is located on the East African plateau, averaging about 1100 meters
above sea level, sloping very steadily downwards to the Sudanese Plain to
the north. The country is surrounded by Congo, Sudan, Kenia and Rwanda, and
its main cities - Kampala and Entebbe - are on the southeast side, on the
borders of lake Victoria, the origin of the Nile. The other large lakes in
Uganda also continue to be named after British royalty: lakes Edward,
George, Albert. The rule of Idi Amin ruined the country and decimated its
wildlife, but since then things have improved somewhat and wildlife has
recovered in the national parks.
We visited Uganda around xmas/new year 2005/6, starting from Entebbe and
traveling around the country in 2 weeks. That meant too many kilometers in
too little time, and the red dirt from the unpaved roads is still in the
seams of my photobag. Around the time of our trip, tourism was still quite
limited in Uganda, partly because of the bad reputation of Idi's regime and
partly because of the continuing unrest at the border with Sudan. We went as
far as Murchinson falls (see picture above), but the activities of "Lord's
army" prevented any further trips north. Many local people were not
accustomed to seeing European tourists. When we stopped for lunch at the
side of the road one day, children came to watch us and Renée wanted to give
them some pencils and notebooks (the travel guides has warned us: never give
money, give some simple things they can use instead), but they fled in
panic. Our guide came over and they told him that the Mzungu (normally used
to indicate a white person, but ironically also used for a group of visiting
african americans) woman had come after them and they had to run for their
lives. When everything calmed down again, the small gifts found their way
after all.
Still, there are several luxurious lodges, mostly originating from the old
British days, linked to national parks and build at spectacular sites. We
did not have the chance to stay for long in any one of them, but they looked
like places we would enjoy returning to one day.
With the great rivers and lakes, there is an incredibly rich array of
species around the water. Kingfishers - we saw the Malachite, Grey Headed,
Pied and Woodland - waders and other waterbirds - Hammerheads, Skimmers,
Saddle, Yellow and Open billed Storks - and the Hippos and Crocodiles of the
Nile. At the Rwandan border we saw the mountain gorillas - and were pelted
with stones on our way there because of the Uganda plates on the car.
Two weeks is far too short to even scratch the surface of the incredible
riches of Uganda's nature, but we greatly enjoyed our stay and the
pictures we have been able to make.